Wine colors. Ouvert du lundi au samedi sur rendez-vous uniquement de 8h à 11h30 puis de 13h30 à 18h. For groups of up to 10 persons. Wine-tasting in a wine-cellar or at the winery Wine trails of Burgundy. I want to go there. Like our page. Tweets de vinsdebourgogne. Follow us. It would be unlikely that the Romans, who adored wine, would not encourage vineyard development and wine production in a territory so far from their home vineyards.
However, the absence of any hard evidence makes such theories conjectural. While the Greeks or Romans probably planted the first vineyards in Burgundy, it was the advent of Christianity and the flourishing of the church that brought Burgundy to its ascendency. Clearly the Duc realized that the Benedictines controlled more than 1, monasteries throughout Europe and were as powerful an entity as any government of the time. Until the French Revolution at the end of the eighteenth century, the Abbey of Cluny was one of the greatest religious centers in Europe as well as an immense political and economic power.
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In A. This village, and its wine, was to be unwaveringly tied to the influence and prosperity of the church until the French Revolution of The new abbey at Cîteaux was governed according to the fundamental teachings of St. They believed in a spartan lifestyle and physically exhausting hard labor. This stretch of limestone hillsides had long proved unsuitable for crops, but the Cistercians, with their commitment to back-breaking labor, believed the vine could be cultivated and quality wine produced.
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While it may have been just good fortune, it seems more likely that the shrewd monks realized all too well that the production of quality wine, and its presence on the finest tables of Europe, was of greater influence than their most articulate and persuasive diplomat. It remained under their control until the French Revolution. The Cistercians also launched a branch of their order at the Clos de Vougeot. They had no way of knowing that hundreds of years later that particular vineyard would become part of an elaborate appellation system imposed on all of the best winemaking regions of France.
It was considered a revolutionary concept, but in hindsight, hardly original. For example, the monks had their own notions about the quality of wine from their vineyards at Clos de Vougeot. The wine from the lower slopes of the Clos de Vougeot was called the Cuvées des Moines the cuvée for the monks. The wine from the superior middle slopes was called Cuvées des Rois or cuvée for the kings , and the wine from the top slopes the finest parcels of the Clos de Vougeot which now abut the neighboring Grands Crus of Musigny and Grands Echézeaux was called the Cuvée des Papes cuvée for the popes.
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One of the most frequently heard arguments today is that the lower, flat ground of the Clos de Vougeot should not be entitled to Grand Cru status as it is incapable of making wine as profound as that from the top slopes. The monks, with their three separate cuvées of Clos Vougeot, apparently realized this eight centuries ago. The market for claret was in London, not Paris. During this era, the great dukes of Burgundy controlled not only Burgundy, but also the majority of northern France and large portions of what is now Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg.
This period witnessed an extraordinary flourishing of art, architecture, and music. The reputation the dukes of Burgundy had for enjoying all things fine and expensive has been largely unsurpassed, even by the most materialistic, excessive dictators of the twentieth century. Under the dukes, the huge monastic orders prospered. They were the beneficiaries of large land grants, and were encouraged by the dukes to build great abbeys and cathedrals. There were four great dukes during this one-hundred-year eat, drink, and be merry reign of good fortune.
Philip the Bold , the first of these powerful dukes, obviously possessed a fine palate because in he ordered the Gamay grape to be pulled up and replaced by Pinot Noir. Philip was followed by his son, John the Fearless , who was assassinated by his political opponents. He was succeeded by Philip the Good In , he declared that the flat, poorly drained fields surrounding Dijon were legally off limits for planting Pinot Noir.
He was also reputed to have frequently claimed that Burgundy was far superior to its rival to the southwest, Bordeaux. Philip the Good named Nicolas Rolin as his Chancellor. When Rolin died in , he had amassed a considerable estate, which he bequeathed to the Hôtel Dieu in Beaune. Today, this building, part of the Hospices de Beaune, is a hospital that survives on money from the sale of wine produced from donated vineyards.
When he was killed in battle in and his army destroyed, the era in which the dukes of Burgundy had enjoyed such great wealth, power, and independence came to an end. I suspect modern-day Burgundy bears little resemblance to the Burgundy of the great dukes. The French Revolution of fundamentally altered the landscape of Burgundy, tearing apart most of the gigantic wine estates owned by the wealthy and the monastic orders. This code required that upon the death of a parent, the land be divided equally among all sons.
This multiple ownership of the same vineyard reaches its preposterous, dizzyingly frustrating absurdity with the great vineyard of Clos Vougeot, which possesses acres and plus landowners. One hardly needs to be reminded of the infinite number of variations in quality that can occur from the same vineyard when the wine is made by as many as six dozen different producers.
In late and early , there were some small but fierce battles between the Allied forces and the retreating Germans, particularly in the Côte de Beaune. An endearing story of a French commander has emerged from the skirmishes of the last years of World War II. The commander apparently delayed his attack on the retreating Germans for fear of damaging the best Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and Meursault.
When he was subsequently apprised that the Germans were occupying only the lower slopes, or those vineyards not entitled to Premier Cru or Grand Cru status, he immediately ordered his soldiers to attack the German positions.
The first and most important part of this trilogy is an alphabetical listing of the major as well as many minor producers, the wines they produce, and an overview of the quality and style of wine that emerge from their cellars. Without a thorough understanding of who are the better producers, there is absolutely no possibility of finding the best bottles of Santenay, Mâcon-Villages, Moulin-à-Vent, Chambertin, etc.
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I have tried to highlight the most salient features of each Villages or appellation, pointing out those producers who merit the most attention for their exemplary efforts. At the same time, I have chosen not to ignore many famous producers whose commitment to quality leaves a great deal to be desired. I have also been cognizant of the need, where possible, to point out the best values.
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However, certain Villages do satisfy both the palate and the purse. The sketches of the different Villages and appellations supplement the information about the specific growers. It has as many art treasures and architectural wonders as any part of France. I believe the restaurants and hotels add a dimension to the book that allows the visitor to share some of the same wonderful experiences my wife and I have enjoyed over the years. The third section of this trilogy is the assessment of vintages from through Specific tasting notes are provided for the wines from the vintages of , , , , and In a real sense, only the tasting notes for , , , and are of any practical use since the wines from the other vintages have, for all intents and purposes, long disappeared from the marketplace.
Lamentably, I think that most of the best s have disappeared as well. It is important to share these tasting notes in order to demonstrate to the reader how I thought the wines were showing, what they tasted like, and how they fared vis-à-vis their peer group. There are also summaries of the other vintages, including the most prominent and most disappointing wines. How I evaluate wines has been well documented in my other writings, but it is important that it be restated. It goes without saying that in evaluating wines professionally, proper glasses and correct serving temperature of the wine must be prerequisites to any objective and meaningful tasting.
Traditionally, the best glasses for critical tasting have been those approved by the International Standards Organization. Called the ISO glass, it is tulip shaped and has been designed for tasting. However, in my office I have begun to use new glasses developed in France several years ago.
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Called Les Impitoyables the pitiless , they are without question the finest tasting glasses ever designed. They are not good glasses to drink from because their opening is so narrow, but for critical evaluation, they have no equals. If the temperature is too warm, the bouquet becomes diffuse and the taste muddled and flat.
If the temperature is too cold, there is no discernible bouquet and the flavors are completely locked in by the chilling effect on the wine. When I examine a wine critically, there is both a visual and physical examination. Against a white background the wine is first given a visual exam for its brilliance, richness, and intensity of color. For red burgundies color is significantly less important than it is for Bordeaux, Rhônes, or California Cabernets. However, all the great vintages of red burgundy, when young, traditionally share a rich, medium ruby color, whereas the poorer vintages often have weaker, less intense ruby colors due to poor weather and rain.
Certainly, in , , and the general color of the red wines was moderately dark. In , , and it was medium to light ruby. In looking at an older wine, the rim of the wine next to the glass should be examined for amber, orange, rusty, and brown colors.